Vis, Croatia - 2006

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Vis is a tiny island in the Adriatic Sea off the coast of Croatia, a two hour ferry ride from Split.  It was a military
base until 1998 and closed to the outside world.  Hence it is unspoilt.  There are only two towns, Vis and Komiza,
which offer a few shops and several restaurants and not a lot else Split - the waterfront with Diocletian's Palace is in the backgound The Eastern Gateway to Diocletian's Palace which dates from the 3rd Century AD This is the Northern Gateway to the Palace The Peristyle and  grand entrance to what was Diocletian's quarters to the south overlooking the sea
Map of Vis Split Split Split Split
A view of the Peristyle from the Cathedral of St Domnius The tower of the Cathedral of St Domnius and the octagonal building which was originally Diocletian's Mausoleum
and is now part of the cathedral Part of the basement of Diocletian's Palace.  The large vaulted substructure is virtually untouched The palace has been extensively built within over the centuries.  Despite this, it is remarkably well preserved Some streets are very narrow
Split Split Split Split Split
It is easy to get lost! Later architecture within Diocletian's Palace The local market in Split Cutting up a tuna in the fish market of Split Our ferry arrives
Split Split Split Split Split
Getting ready to offload its cars and passengers Leaving Split on the ferry, Petar Hektorovic View of Split and the limestone hills behind The waterfront of Split Arriving at Vis.  Petar Hektorovic was originaly the Danish ferry, Langeland III purchased for use in Vis in 1998
Split Split Split Split Vis
Looking across the bay to Kut where we stayed A typical street in Vis, built of rough limestone blocks Mo and Katrina look out of the kitchen windows of our apartment.  Our landlady, Anka, lives in the room below
during the summer months.  She grew up on the island, but now lives in Zagreb The entrance was from a side street The top bedroom had a balcony overlooking the back yard of several houses
Vis Vis Vis Vis Vis
The top bedroom from the balcony The table laid for our evening meal.... Mo chops the bacon ready for...... Katrina to cook spaghetti carbonara.... ...served with local white wine
Vis Vis Vis Vis Vis
It was a delicious meal ...enjoyed by all Restaurant Val seen from the kitchen window We ate there one evening - sea bass and squid washed down with local beer Ice cream to follow was from the local
Vis Vis Restaurant Val Restaurant Val Vis
We tried this out several times! My favourite was chocolate and lemon Most nights we ate pizza.  This was our first night This became our favourite restaurant Each pizza was made to order and cooked in this oven.  The chef worked very hard!
Vis Vis Vis Vis Vis
Mo and I always chose We called it the pussy cat restaurant - this was only one of many The English Graveyard This plaque could only be erected after the army base was closed in 1998 and foreigners were at last allowed
to visit The beach by the English Graveyard
Vis Vis The English Graveyard The English Graveyard Vis
The water was beautifully clear Looking across the bay to the main part of Vis town Lunch on the quay where the ferry came in The Pirovo Peninsula upon which are found the remains of the theatre of Roman Issa and the Franciscan monastery
of Viska luka The Town Beach on the Pirovo Peninsula - looking across the bay to Kut
Vis Vis Vis Pirovo Peninsula Pirovo Peninsula
The Town Beach on the Pirovo Peninsula - looking across the bay to Kut Looking across to Kut and the tower of St Cyprian Church Petar Hektorovic sails in past the ruined tower on the hill and the main hotel of Vis, Hotel Issa The remains of the tower There is not much left
Pirovo Peninsula Kut Vis Vis Vis
View across the bay and of the Pirovo Penisula and monastery Looking in the opposite direction to a practically deserted coastline Looking towards the other islands and the Dalmatian Coast One of the several churches in Vis More views of Kut
Vis Vis Vis Vis Kut
These are the fortification walls of the Baterija Madonna in Kut which was built by the Austrians in 1830.  It now
houses an archaeological museum These amphorae were found in a shipwreck in Vis harbour.  They date from the late 2nd or early 1st Century BC.
Until I saw this display, I had puzzled over the impractical shape of amphorae, not appreciating the fact that their
design enabled them to be stacked with great efficiency Both yellow and red flowers appear on the same plant Pomegranate The road behind Kut climbs to the top of the ridge
Baterija Madonna, Kut Baterija Madonna, Kut Flower Pomegranate Kut
giving spectacular views across the bay Back down amongst the houses We hired a car for the day.  This is our beautiful orange beetle! This is a small church on the road to Komiza It was closed, but we were able to look in through a small window
Kut Kut Beetle Church Church
Looking down at Komiza from the top of the ridge Komiza seen from lower down, with the Monastery of St Nicolas on the left The Monastery of St Nicolas in Komiza The Monastery of St Nicolas in Komiza The harbour of Komiza
Komiza Komiza Komiza Komiza Komiza
The harbour of Komiza and the citadel which dates from 1585 We enjoyed iced coffees in a harbourside cafe Sunbathing on the town beach A typical street in Komiza On the road above Komiza
Komiza Komiza Komiza Komiza Komiza
Looking back at the town At the top of the cliff looking down at the bay at Stiniva It is very steep ... and a very long way down but well worth the effort
Komiza Stiniva Stiniva Stiniva Stiniva
Looking at Stiniva beach from the sea The water was crystal clear Flora on the way back up - a good excuse for a rest We moved on to another beach at Milna The sea was shallow and the beach sandy
Stiniva Stiniva Stiniva Milna Milna
Back at Vis at the end of the day The ferry is just leaving - it must be 5.30pm Parking just above Kut - time to take the beetle back and go out for a meal Dusk over the bay of Vis This was a very pleasant spot for sunbathing and swimming
Vis Vis Vis Vis Vis
What a lovely place to live - perhaps a bit close to the water? I always like to have a destination when I swim The Czech Villa which was built in the 1930s, was used by the army and is now a grand ruin The street outside the church of St Cyprian is decorated for the Madonna Festival The bells in the tower of St Cyprian Church were beaten rhythmically to announce
the Madonna Parade
Vis Vis Vis Madonna Parade St Cyprian Church
The wooden effigy is carried down the steps outside the church The Madonna effigy She is carried through the streets preceded and followed by the congregation singing hymns The effigy is heavy and the bearers change places to ease the load as they carry her through the streets The sun sets over the bay
Madonna Parade Madonna Parade Madonna Parade Madonna Parade Vis
View of Vis in the morning - the tower of St Cyprian in the foreground Buying half a watermelon We took a boat trip around the island In the front - as ever The island of Bisevo
Vis Vis Boat trip Boat trip Bisevo
Coming into the harbour at Bisevo The beach at Bisevo We transferred into small boats to visit the Blue Cave The entrance to the cave was very low The glorious blue of the water is caused by light coming in from an entrance just under the surface of the water
Bisevo Bisevo Bisevo The Blue Cave The Blue Cave
Divers were exploring the waters of the cave whilst we were there Coming into the Bay of Rukavac for lunch and a swim Enjoying a local beer at a cafe overlooking the bay at Rukavac The lighthouse at Stoncica Part of the necropolis of Issa
The Blue Cave Rukavac Rukavac Boat trip Issa
Our landlady, Anka Selling wine to the visitors on the yachts Vis is a popular port of call On the ferry back to Split as the dawn breaks over the islands Split in the early morning
Anka Vis Vis Dawn over the island Split
The Dalmatian coast        
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