Libya 2009 - Part 1

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We arrive at our hotel in Tripoli late in the afternoon after a very early start from Bristol A glass of  yoghurt drink and fresh dates are very welcoming and perk us up The first of several very pleasant meals in local restaurants in Tripoli.  Lamb was frequently on the menu The former cathedral of Tripoli was built by the Italians in the 1920s and converted to a mosque in 1970 after the revolution View of the harbour area of Tripoli from the hotel restaurant on the top floor
Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli
         
The Anglican Church of Christ the King at the top of the street near our hotel Shopping for our picnic on the way to Qasr Al-Haj Katrina decided to buy fresh dates - they didn't last long! We stopped for a There was the inevitable queue for the ladies' toilet!
Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli Tripolitania Tripolitania
         
A small butcher's shop A market on the other side of the road Qasr Al-Haj - this Berber fortified granary was built in the 12th Century and was in use until quite recently There is only one small entrance, making it easy to defend if necessary There are 114 storage rooms on different  levels which is the same number as there are chapters in the Qur'an
Tripolitania Tripolitania Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj
         
Built from local stone, mud bricks and gypsum, the granary protected the crops from weather, bugs and thieves Some of the storage areas are below ground level and were used  to store olive oil, as well as wheat and barley Well ventilated, the rooms kept the crops dry and cool Some of the early palm trunk doors are still in place The upper storage areas were reached by a single staircase and perilous walkways around the top
Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj
         
I wasn't brave enough to go any further than this! This is the best preserved of the remaining fortified granaries in the area Jamal demonstrates how the storage areas were locked Artefacts from Qasr Al-Haj, including grain stored since 1968 The caretaker by the wooden entance door which hangs and swivels on a branch in the traditional way
Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj
         
The remains of the old village which was abandoned in the 1950s The old buildings are crumbling away Rooms were small and very basic This area near the granary has been preserved and restored to show what the housing would have looked like Houses were small and close together and without running water or electricity
Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj
         
The modern village where the local people live now The old village beyond the courtyard of Qasr Al-Haj Tormisa - an ancient Berber settlement on a rocky outcrop of the Jebel Nafusa or Western Mountains of Libya Tormisa dates from the 13th Century and was occupied until the 1950s.  A drawbridge and watchtower were part of its defences The village looks out over the semi-desert scrubland of the Sahal al-Jefara to the north
Qasr Al-Haj Qasr Al-Haj Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa
         
The land is criss-crossed with wadis and looks very barren The edge of the village falls sheer to the plain below Once this rocky outcrop was joined to the village, but has now collapsed The buildings cling to the edge of the cliff
Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa
         
This small room is still used as a mosque by local people These marks carved on the doorway of the mosque might be Byzantine Some houses had upper storeys The views are spectacular This is purported to be a bridal room.  Underneath the arched sleeping area is a storage cupboard
Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa
         
The arched alcoves in the houses show the remains of delicate stucco decoration Some of the old houses are now used as animal pens It was good fun to explore! This local man has made a small museum of artefacts from the locality Libyan transport can be very rough and ready!
Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa Tormisa
         
The courtyard of the Troglodyte House at Ruhaybat which has been converted into a hostel These homes were built in caves or into the sides of hillsides and were warm in winter and cool in summer The rooms from several former dwellings are now small dormitories for the hostel The accommodation is basic but comfortable We had a fun time
Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat
         
It was very atmospheric! It proved a little cold in the evening Ruhaybat, the modern town where the Troglodyte House is situated A mosque near the Troglodyte House in Ruhaybat The olive harvest of a local family
Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Ruhaybat Ruhaybat Olive harvest - Ruhaybat
         
These olives have been picked by the family for their own use This lady is patiently picking out the leaves and twigs ready for the olives to be pressed This lady is making bread for us.  She has prepared the dough... ...and bakes it on the side of this charcoal fire It is very basic...
Olive harvest - Ruhaybat Olive harvest - Ruhaybat Bread making - Ruhaybat Bread making - Ruhaybat Bread making - Ruhaybat
         
...but the bread, dipped in olive oil, is delicious Marion helps a local lad with his English as we sit in the evening sun waiting for dinner... ...which was a fine Berber-style meal Margaret serves our end of the table
Bread making - Ruhaybat Bread making - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat
         
Bill pours out the extremely sweet tea after our meal We had to be up very early the next morning for our journey to Sabratha Sunrise over Ruhaybat We stop for a photo opportunity The mountains are beautiful in the early morning sunshine
Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat Troglodyte House - Ruhaybat On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha
         
Scrubland There are wells all along the route.  A tin can on a piece of rope serves the purpose Vera tests it out for us Jamal spots a road-side stall selling truffles which he wants to buy These are gathered from the scrubland and are expensive
On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha
         
We come up behind a lorry carrying a load of camels The two vehicles drive side by side for a few minutes to give us a chance to take photos! The camels were strapped down to stop them jumping out but seemed quite happy This is the glorious setting of Sabratha Looking across the old residential quarter of Sabratha towards the Punic Mausoleum of Bes which dates from the 2nd Century BC
On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha On the way to Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
It was destroyed by an earthquake and its stones used in the building of the Byzantine Wall It was reconstructed  by archaeologists in the 1920s and is an approximation of what was originally there The 6th Century Byzantine Wall was built to protect the city from the Berber tribes from the south Little remains of this 2nd Century Roman temple except for the marble floors and the broken cippolino columns This finely carved column is found in the Basilica which dates from the 4th Century AD
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
View across the site towards the sea All that remains of the 2nd Century AD Antonine Temple is the podium The Temple of Liber Pater or Dionysius is also 2nd Century AD.  It was destroyed in the earthquake of 365 AD and was never rebuilt The columns are sandstone and only two of them are original
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
This is a cruciform baptismal font dating from the Byzantine period View of the theatre of Sabratha from the podium of the Capitoleum The Curia or Senate House of Sabratha with its restored archway This building was rebuilt after the earthquake of 365AD.  This is the courtyard area The public latrines of Sabratha
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
A fine mosaic in the Seaward Baths We take a break from sight-seeing for lunch - another delicious meal The theatre of Sabratha was built in the 2nd Century AD and was used well into the 4th Century It is the largest theatre in North Africa and has a scaena frons with 3 tiers of corinthian columns
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
It was rebuilt by Italian archaeologists in the 1920s and is an impressive sight The columns are fluted and have corinthian capitals The front of the stage is decorated witha variety of relief carvings These are the nine Muses This central niche is very fine
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
The theatre would have seated about 5000 people Much of the stone was robbed for later building, so not enough remains to complete the top storey It is very impressive The central entrance onto the stage The central entrance onto the stage
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
Dolphin carvings were found at each end of the VIP seating This mosaic floor is part of the Theatre Baths complex The mosaic floors were black and white and geometric A mosaic floor in the Oceanus Baths
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha
         
One of the plunge pools of the Oceanus Baths with its mosaic decoration Sabratha - the Temple of Isis The Temple of Isis which is gradually being eroded by the sea    
Sabratha Sabratha Sabratha    
         
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